One of the specifications you’ll see (or will not see) when researching a new LCD TV flat screen purchase is response time. This important spec represents the amount of time it takes for one pixel to go from active (black) to inactive (white) and back to black again. Think of it in relation to shutter speed on a camera. It’s the speed at which an LCD panels crystals “twist” to block and allow light to pass. It is measured in milliseconds (ms) with a lower number meaning faster change between active and inactive pixels and resulting in less image artifacts. The lower the response time the better.

Many current and older LCD TVs with longer response times display a smear or blur around fast moving objects making them unacceptable for action scenes, sports, video game and just about any fast moving video. For example, when watching a baseball game on an older LCD TV the ball could appear to have a comet like tail when moving quickly across the screen. This distracting lag time in response in LCD televisions and displays has been called among other names: motion lag, trailer effect, fast motion blur, smearing. It is prevalent in LCD flat panels, but not as much in LCD rear projection televisions. The reason this smearing effect is important to you as a consumer is that a high response time (slow conversion) can completely ruin an otherwise good looking picture, no matter what the contrast and luminance of the television. That being stated, some people are much more sensitive to it that others.

Manufacturers of LCD TV are keenly aware of this weakness in response time compared to other technologies such as Plasma, or DLP. As a result, the best of the manufacturers have improved response rate times considerably – nearly to the point of non-consideration. Some lower tier manufacturers are finding more creative ways to measure response time in order to be or stay competitive. Originally, LCD TVs and monitors were listed with TrTf (Time Rising, Time Falling – sometimes referred to as average). Now, many manufacturers are using a GTG (Gray to Gray) measurement, which is a different average and can measure quite a bit lower than the TrTf time on the same set. Some manufacturers even find it acceptable enough to list just one half of the TrTf time. The problem is there is no industry standard for measurement in response time. There are only liberal interpretations already in use for luminance and contrast ratio.

Response rate time is currently an in vogue specification for marketing LCD TVs as manufacturers battle the perception of this weakness in LCD panels. But as manufacturers increasingly compete based on specifications, the specs are less and less reliable. Factories are becoming more adept at rigging the specification measurement so that they can undercut the competitions product costs. Or else they just don’t show a response time measurement at all. This was the case with viewing angles, then brightness and contrast and now response time is the current “0-60” measurement for an LCD flat screen. In my opinion, a consumer’s best option is to go with a Tier 1 manufacturer such as Sharp or Sony who traditionally are much more trustworthy about specification integrity. Another problem with the specification is that some manufacturers seem to eager to throw out a response time number, while others are reluctant to publish this information due to either 1) poor response times in their LCDs, or 2) good response times but hesitation at putting the number forth just to have a myriad of less reputable manufacturers imitate it. One example of true response times is Sharps most recent line of Aquos LCD television product. These are very highly rated LCDs and with a response time spec listed at 6 milliseconds. The older non-Aquos LCD TVs had a listed time of 12 to 16 milliseconds (when you could find the spec). Sony’s current LCD XBR and Bravia lines have purported response times of 8 milliseconds. Some Korean and Chinese LCD manufacturers are rumored to have response times in excess of 20 or even 25 milliseconds. Does response time make a difference? You bet it does. It would be my top consideration along with viewing angle when purchasing an LCD.

14 Miliseconds can be seen by the naked eye, these two race cars are 14 miliseconds apart.

source http://www.lcdtvbuyingguide.com

Thermal dissipation - Laptop cooling
Never use your laptop directly on a surface that prevents proper air flow, such as inside the laptop case, on a blanket or pillow. Periodically check that vents are not obstructed. Use a mobile cooling pad if necessary.

Battery charge - Laptop autonomy
Discharge completely your battery at least once per month.

Security - Laptop tracking
Use the CyberAngel security solution to track your laptop in case it is stolen.

Viruses
It is not enough to have an antivirus program installed. It needs to be kept up-to-date, and we recommend to update it at least once per week.

Windows Updates
Make sure that your computer downloads Window Updates periodically and frequently. This will enhance stability and security of your operating system.

Carrying
Always use an appropriate carrying bag when traveling, to enhance shock absorption. Whenever you need to ship your laptop through a carrier (SUPS, FedEx, UPS, etc...), always use packaging specifically designed for laptops transit.

Shocks
Because of they are designed to maximize mobility, laptops are prone to shocks. Always turn your laptop OFF before you move your notebook from a place to another, unless it is well stabilized on a stand that is designed to absorb shocks.

Humidity
Laptops are very sensitive to humidity. Avoid liquid exposure as much as you can (water, wine, etc...).

Dust
Laptops are very sensitive to dust. Make sure the laptop is never left on a floor, but that it is always high on a table, desk, stand, etc... Check vents frequently to see if they are not obstructed.

Preventing Laptop Computer Theft

Laptop computers are easy targets for thieves. Laptop computers are small, valuable, can be removed quickly, and are easily hidden. Laptop computers can be worth up to $5000 or more. The laptop computer can be pawned at a pawnshop for half its value.

Here are a few tips to reduce the risk of having your laptop stolen.

Don’t leave your laptop out in the open even for a second.

Remember extreme temperatures can cause damage to your laptop.

Transport your laptop in a nondescript case.

Write down the serial number and keep it in a safe place.

Always back up your information on disks and store them in a safe place.

Ever been on a long flight, ready to hunker down and get some work done, only to discover that your notebook's battery is plunging toward the red zone an hour after takeoff? So have we. That's why we've gathered these simple tips that will preserve your notebook's juice and boost your productivity. Read them now. You'll thank yourself later.

1. Sleep Is Good
Use the operating system's power-management features (in Windows XP, under Power Options in the Control Panel; or in Vista, under Mobile PC in the Control Panel) to set aggressive targets for when the display will go dark (say, after five minutes of inactivity) and when the machine will slip into sleep mode (no longer than ten minutes of inactivity). And if you can spare the extra time it takes for the machine to resume, set the PC to hibernate, not just sleep, when you close the lid.

2. Don't Be Performance Hungry
Unless you're running high-order mathematical calculations on that long plane ride, chances are you don't need all the processing power your CPU is capable of giving. So in Vista, select the "Power saver" power plan (found in the Control Panel, in the Power Options section) to extend battery life when on DC power, and leave the 3D gaming for when you're near an AC outlet.

3. Dim the Lights
Turn down the brightness of the LCD panel (via the Function-key combo, or in the Control Panel's Display Settings dialog) to the lowest level you can tolerate. The backlight sucks power like the Rockefeller Center Christmas tree.

4. Banish Non-Essential Components
When you aren't actively using the Wi-Fi, Bluetooth, and IR radios, turn them off (via the hard switch, if your PC has it, or in the appropriate utility set), so they don't trickle you dry trying to connect. Also, use USB-attached devices only when absolutely necessary. They aren't getting their power from positive ions in the air, you know.

5. Watch Scheduled Tasks
Be sure that your periodic virus scan is set to a time when you're usually plugged in; running a full-disk virus check keeps the hard drive and CPU fully engaged for the better part of an hour.

6. Lay Off the Multimedia
A little in-flight music is nice while you construct that PowerPoint presentation, but streaming music from your hard drive (or playing a CD) means the disk (or disc) is always spinning.

7. Get More Juice
Let everyone else fight over that free AC outlet. Designed to sit underneath your notebook, the APC Universal Notebook Battery 70 ($149; www.apcc.com) can provide up to six hours of endurance using its lithium polymer technology. It comes with a variety of notebook tips and features selectable output voltages. The unit adds 1.8 pounds to your carry-on, but it's better than having your laptop run out of gas midflight.

Digital Camera Modes (Eng)

Digital Camera Modes

This week I did an informal survey on a few of my digital camera owning friends and asked them to nominate which shooting modes that they most commonly use on their digital cameras (they use a range of point and shoot and DSLR digicams).
The results of this little survey didn’t really surprise me - Automatic Mode was the overwhelming response from both beginner and the more advanced users alike (a little surprising to me). In fact three of the people I questioned responded by asking ‘is there any other non Automatic mode?’
As a result I’ve decided to take a run through the basic shooting modes that most digital cameras have (both point and shoot and DSLRs have most of these).
While this is pretty basic information for many readers I hope it will be helpful for those right at the beginning of their digital photography journey who are yet to venture out of Automatic Mode.

Automatic Mode

I suspect no one will need any introduction to this mode (as it seems most digital camera owners use it). Auto mode tells your camera to use it’s best judgement to select shutter speed, aperture, ISO, white balance, focus and flash to take the best shot that it can. With some cameras auto mode lets you override flash or change it to red eye reduction. This mode will give you nice results in many shooting conditions, however you need to keep in mind that you’re not telling your camera any extra information about the type of shot you’re taking so it will be ‘guessing’ as to what you want. As a result some of the following modes might be more appropriate to select as they give your camera a few more hints (without you needing to do anything more).

Portrait Mode

When you switch to portrait mode your camera will automatically select a large aperture (small number) which helps to keep your background out of focus (ie it sets a narrow depth of field - ensuring your subject is the only thing in focus and is therefore the centre of attention in the shot). Portrait mode works best when you’re photographing a single subject so get in close enough to your subject (either by zooming in or walking closer) so that your photographing the head and shoulders of them). Also if you’re shooting into the sun you might want to trigger your flash to add a little light onto their face.

Macro Mode

Macro mode lets you move your closer into your subject to take a close up picture. It’s great for shooting flowers, insects or other small objects. Different digital cameras will have macro modes with different capabilities including different focussing distances (usually between 2-10cm for point and shoot cameras). When you use macro mode you’ll notice that focussing is more difficult as at short distances the depth of field is very narrow (just millimeters at times). Keep your camera and the object you’re photographing parallel if possible or you’ll find a lot of it will be out of focus. You’ll probably also find that you won’t want to use your camera’s built in flash when photographing close up objects or they’ll be burnt out. Lastly - a tripod is invaluable in macro shots as the depth of field is so small that even moving towards or away from your subject slightly can make your subject out of focus. (I’ll write a full tutorial on Macro Photography in the coming weeks).

Landscape Mode

This mode is almost the exact opposite of portrait mode in that it sets the camera up with a small aperture (large number) to make sure as much of the scene you’re photographing will be in focus as possible (ie it give you a large depth of field). It’s therefore ideal for capturing shots of wide scenes, particularly those witch points of interest at different distances from the camera. At times your camera might also select a slower shutter speed in this mode (to compensate for the small aperture) so you might want to consider a tripod or other method of ensuring your camera is still.

Sports Mode

Photographing moving objects is what sports mode (also called ‘action mode’ in some cameras) is designed for. It is ideal for photographing any moving objects including people playing sports, pets, cars, wildlife etc. Sports mode attempts to freeze the action by increasing the shutter speed. When photographing fast moving subjects you can also increase your chances of capturing them with panning of your camera along with the subject and/or by attempting to pre focus your camera on a spot where the subject will be when you want to photograph it (this takes practice).

Night Mode

This is a really fun mode to play around with and can create some wonderfully colorful and interesting shots. Night mode (a technique also called ’slow shutter sync’) is for shooting in low light situations and sets your camera to use a longer shutter speed to help capture details of the background but it also fires off a flash to illuminate the foreground (and subject). If you use this mode for a ’serious’ or well balanced shot you should use a tripod or your background will be blurred - however it’s also fun to take shots with this handheld to purposely blur your backgrounds - especially when there is a situation with lights behind your subject as it can give a fun and experimental look (great for parties and dance floors with colored lights).

Movie Mode

This mode extends your digital camera from just capturing still images to capturing moving ones. Most new digital cameras these days come with a movie mode that records both video but also sound. The quality is generally not up to video camera standards but it’s a handy mode to have when you come across that perfect subject that just can’t be captured with a still image. Keep in mind that moving images take up significantly more space on your memory storage than still images.
Other less common modes that I’ve seen on digital cameras over the past year include:

• Panoramic/Stitch Mode - for taking shots of a panoramic scene to be joined together later as one image.
• Snow Mode - to help with tricky bright lighting at the snow
• Fireworks Mode - for shooting firework displays
• Kids and Pets Mode - fast moving objects can be tricky - this mode seems to speed up shutter speed and help reduce shutter lag with some pre focussing
• Underwater Mode - underwater photography has it’s own unique set of exposure requirements
• Beach Mode - another bright scene mode
• Indoor Mode - helps with setting shutter speed and white balance
• Foliage Mode - boosts saturation to give nice bold colors

Semi Automatic Modes

Aperture Priority Mode (A or AV)

This mode is really a semi-automatic (or semi-manual) mode where you choose the aperture and where your camera chooses the other settings (shutter speed, white balance, ISO etc) so as to ensure you have a well balanced exposure. Aperture priority mode is useful when you’re looking to control the depth of field in a shot (usually a stationary object where you don’t need to control shutter speed). Choosing a larger number aperture means the aperture (or the opening in your camera when shooting) is smaller and lets less light in. This means you’ll have a larger depth of field (more of the scene will be in focus) but that your camera will choose a faster shutter speed. Small numbers means the opposite (ie your aperture is large, depth of field will be small and your camera will probably choose a slower shutter speed).

Shutter Priority Mode (S or TV)

Shutter priority is very similar to aperture priority mode but is the mode where you select a shutter speed and the camera then chooses all of the other settings. You would use this mode where you want to control over shutter speed (obviously). For example when photographing moving subjects (like sports) you might want to choose a fast shutter speed to freeze the motion. On the flip-side of this you might want to capture the movement as a blur of a subject like a waterfall and choose a slow shutter speed. You might also choose a slow shutter speed in lower light situations.

Program Mode (P)

Some digital cameras have this priority mode in addition to auto mode (in a few cameras Program mode IS full Auto mode… confusing isn’t it!). In those cameras that have both, Program mode is similar to Auto but gives you a little more control over some other features including flash, white balance, ISO etc. Check your digital camera’s manual for how the Program mode differs from Automatic in your particular model.

Fully Manual Mode

Manual Mode

In this mode you have full control over your camera and need to think about all settings including shutter speed, aperture, ISO, white balance, flash etc. It gives you the flexibility to set your shots up as you wish. Of course you also need to have some idea of what you’re doing in manual mode so most digital camera owners that I have anything to do with tend to stick to one of the priority modes.

Source: http://digital-photography-school.com

You've read the reviews and put together a great home-theater system, but until you take some time to properly set up your components, they won't perform to the best of their abilities. We've assembled this checklist to help you quickly improve the sound of your home-theater system.

1. Navigate the speaker-setup menus:

Every 5.1/6.1 A/V receiver has a setup menu, but if you've never explored the options, your sound is probably out of whack. The first step is easy enough: select Speaker Size--large, small, or none--for the left- and right-front speakers, the center speaker, and the surround speakers. As a rule of thumb, speakers with 6-inch or bigger woofers are considered large. Next, grab a tape measure and input the full set of speaker-to-listener distances. The receiver will then make sure that the sound from all your speakers reaches your ears at exactly the same time. Some receivers require you to input that information as milliseconds rather than feet--just remember that 1ms is the equivalent of one foot. Finally, you'll need to make sure that all of the speakers are equal in level. Your receiver can send a test tone to each speaker, which will help you adjust the relative volume of each channel. As the sound jumps from speaker to speaker, the loudness should stay the same. You can adjust the level of each speaker by ear or you can…

RadioShack Model 33-2050

2. Buy a sound-level meter:

RadioShack's excellent, but fairly inexpensive, Model 33-2050 meter will ensure more accurate level matching.

3. Confirm that your speaker and interconnect cables are in the correct positions:

With that tangle of cables looming behind your A/V receiver, it's all too easy to mix up which wire goes where. When you're running through the speaker-level adjustments, double-check that the test tones are coming out of the intended speakers. DVDs such as Sound & Vision: Home Theater Tune-Up offer a bevy of additional tests.

4. Tweak subwoofer-level and crossover controls:

Test tones and meters aren't the final arbiters in the bass department. If your sub's bass is boomy, thick, or uneven, first try lowering its level (volume) control--most folks crank their sub louder than necessary. Next, if your satellites are very small, the crossover control should also be set to its midpoint or higher. Bigger speakers produce more bass on their own, so they sound best with the sub's crossover knob set at or near the bottom of its range. Finally, moving the sub out of the corner and closer to one of the front speakers may produce smoother, flatter bass.

5. Purchase speaker stands or brackets:

Pulling speakers out of bookcases or from the tops of cabinets and placing them on floor stands or wall brackets can radically improve their sound quality.

6. Optimize speaker placement:

Even if you don't go for stands or brackets, just remember that's it's important to place the front speakers with their tweeters at--or as close as possible--to ear level. The left/right speakers should be equidistant from the listening position. If a speaker is within 18 inches of a room's corner, angle it away from the corner and toward the main listening position.

7. Tame uncooperative acoustics:

Rooms with bare-wood or tile floors and lots of windows or mirrors always sound overly bright and zippy; a thick rug and/or window drapes will sop up some of the harshness.

Speaker cable

8. Upgrade speaker/interconnect cables:

Are you still you using skinny, freebie wires? Moving up to higher-end cables can make a noteworthy improvement to your sound.

9. Add a separate power amplifier:

If your room is large and/or you really like to pump up the volume, you may need more power. Take a peek in your receiver's owner's manual or back panel to see if it has a set of preamp-out jacks for the left, the right, the center, the left-surround, and the right-surround channels. If your receiver is so equipped, you can go ahead and hook up a gutsy separate 100-, 150-, or 200-watt-per-channel amp to your receiver. Let the good times roll!

10. Buy matched speakers:

If you're currently using a cobbled-together set of speakers, consider moving up to a matched package. Even a moderately priced ensemble will offer far more cohesive sound.

http://reviews.cnet.com/4520-6449_7-5021232-1.html

Digital Cameras: The Top 10 Things You Need to Know

1) Resolution is less important than you think
There is a popular misconception that more mega pixels lead to better pictures. This is not the case.
Sure, higher resolution gives you the ability to crop more aggressively or print large pictures, but only a fraction of digital photographers will benefit from this ability. If you're a casual shooter who won't be printing pictures larger than 8x10" or doing extensive computer editing, then a camera with 5- or 6-megapixel resolution will be sufficient.
More advanced photographers will likely appreciate the flexibility of higher resolution, but a 10+ mega pixel camera is by no means necessary to create stunning pictures. Choose a camera you can understand and afford, and don't be fooled by glitzy high-resolution specs.

2) Zoom is more important than you think
Whether you're shooting distant wildlife or close-up portraits, you can never have too much zoom. The majority of digital cameras have 3-, or 4x optical zoom, but you will never regret choosing a model with more telephoto power.
Fortunately the extended zoom camera category is growing rapidly, and there is a great selection of models with 8-, 10-, or even 12x optical zoom. For the ultimate in zoom control and quality, look for an extended-zoom camera with image stabilization, which will ensure that shots taken at full telephoto will be tack-sharp, even without a tripod.

3) Travelers should use cameras with AA Batteries
Digital cameras come in two varieties: those that use AA-size batteries and those that are powered by proprietary lithium-ion batteries. If you are a traveler, particularly someone who enjoys remote or rustic locations, choose a camera with AA batteries.
When a camera that uses proprietary batteries runs out of power, you have no choice but to plug the battery into a power outlet to recharge it. This requires an available outlet, a battery charger, and, if you're in a foreign country, a power converter. If access to an outlet is ever in doubt, or if you don't want the hassle of carrying cords and chargers, then the limitations of this system are obvious.
When a camera that uses AA-size batteries runs out of power on a trip, you can simply throw out the old batteries and drop in a new set of high-performance AAs like the Energizer E2 Lithium line. Two or three sets of such batteries can usually take you through a 10-day trip. If you're out of high-performance batteries, you also have the option of using standard alkaline batteries, which are available anywhere in the world, and make a cheap and convenient source of backup power (though they only offer a fraction of the life of high performance batteries).
Recent trips to Asia and Africa have borne this theory out—after my companions' cameras had been sidelined by dead batteries, I was still happily shooting away with my AA-powered Canon PowerShot.

4) Small cameras get shots that big cameras don't
Sure, that big, black SLR with the long lens may look fancy, but it won't do you any good if you're not carrying it. Never underestimate the importance of having a camera that is small enough to fit into your pocket—you'll be amazed at the spontaneous pictures you'll have the opportunity to take. While the photo quality produced by an ultra-compact does not equal that of a large SLR, the ability to whip it out and snap a shot while others are fumbling for their bulky cameras more than outweighs this drawback.

5) Canon makes great cameras
Canon digital cameras receive consistently great reviews, and for good reason: Over the last 2+ years, Canon has time and again proven itself capable of producing well-designed cameras that produce impressive results. From the EOS line of digital SLRs to the diminutive PowerShot ELPHs, Canon invests substantial time in the design process, and the results pay off—photographers of all abilities rave about their Canon cameras.
There have been some mistakes along the way—the Canon A70 was built with a design flaw that produces crippling error messages and black lines on the LCD, but newer models seem to be free of this problem. If you're looking for a great combination of features, price, and performance, Canon will almost always deliver. (NOTE: Digital Camera HQ is in no way affiliated with Canon, nor do we derive any benefit from recommending one brand over another).

6) Kodak makes great, easy-to-use cameras
When I bought my mother her first digital camera, I chose a Kodak, having read countless reviews that raved about their user-friendly controls. The reviews were right—Kodak's Easy Share digital cameras are remarkably easy to use: the menus are simple, the LCD text large and clear, and the controls largely self-explanatory. The results are just as impressive, with attractive, saturated colors and crisp definition. Don't be fooled into thinking that Kodak digital cameras are just for beginners, however—their simplicity aside, many of the high-end Easy Share models offer a full suite of manual controls for ambitious photographers.

7) Digital cameras can and will break
Whether it's due to accidental damage or simple wear and tear, digital cameras are not as durable as their film counterparts. Many photographers have film cameras that are ten or twenty years old—don't expect this kind of longevity from your new digital toy. Some cameras suffer from design flaws (like black lines on the LCD screen of the Canon A70), while others fall victim to the kind of mechanical breakdowns that effect every kind of electronic gear.
Does this mean that you shouldn't buy a digital camera? Absolutely not. A digital camera will so fundamentally change the way you think about photography that you will wonder how you ever got along without one. You must, however, be comfortable with the fact that one day your camera will cease to work.
For some, this knowledge may keep them from spending top dollar on a fancy camera; others simply accept it as the sole downside of working with digital. The most important thing is to do your homework before you buy—any fundamental design flaws will be quickly apparent in user reviews.

8) Don't put all your pictures on one card
After returning from a trip to Asia, I eagerly inserted one of my memory cards into a card reader to download my new pictures. For still unexplained reasons (likely a static electricity discharge), a card that should have held over 200 pictures was suddenly rendered blank. Two weeks and $250 later (thanks to www.drivesavers.com), I had recovered about 90% of my pictures, but the rest were lost permanently.
The moral of the story? Like any other technology, flash memory is not flawless. It is very rare to lose images, but it does happen, and the fact that I had spread my pictures between 5 memory cards protected me from the possibility of losing two weeks' worth of irreplaceable vacation memories. Given the choice between choosing a single 1GB memory card, or four 256MB cards, I will always choose multiple cards.

9) Find & use a simple photo editing program
Most digital photographers will never take the time to master expensive and powerful photo editing programs like Adobe Photoshop or Jasc Paint Shop Pro—these programs are too complex and time-consuming for all but the most dedicated photographers. Fortunately there are a variety of easy-to-use editing programs that even novice photographers can use to edit, improve, and organize their digital photos.
My favorite program is Picasa, and it is absolutely free at www.picasa.com. With Picasa you can perform all the basic editing tasks like sharpening, contrast correction, cropping, and straightening—most with just the touch of a button. Spend a few minutes on your best photographs and you will be amazed at the results. Picasa also make it incredibly easy to organize your best shots so you don't have to sift through hundreds of unwanted pictures to find your prizewinners.

10) Print and display your pictures
Far too many people take great digital images, only to have them languish in obscurity on their hard drive, never to be enjoyed by others. Don't let this happen to you.
Online image hosting and printing companies like Snap fish or Kodak Gallery can turn your digital images into high-quality prints of any size. You can simply upload your pictures onto the website. From there you can order prints of every size as well as photo mouse pads, calendars, t-shirts and other gifts. You can also send a link to friends so that they can view your pictures online and order their own copies.
If you want to see more of your own pictures, nothing beats using them as a screen saver on your computer. Simply right-click on your desktop, choose Properties/Screen Saver/Settings, and you can direct your computer to the pictures you wish to use. Set the screensaver to change images every 10 seconds and you'll have an instant slide show every time your computer is idle.
(source http://camera-digital-lsr.com/page.cfm/id/25919)

Technology developed in this gadget with a very rapid, in fact, a model that was launched years ago to become obsolete when compared to products launched at this time. Even better, LCD and Plasma to be more compact, slim, elegant, and are friends with the decor. Keep in mind that LCD and Plasma jawara become due in the ability to provide more space for us. Until now, satu2nya Plasma is the choice for a TV with a screen size. But that also needs to be, towards the LCD are there to occupy the top ladder in the "duel" is. Until now, LCD menjawarai capable of up to 50 inch size, more than that, the price will be more expensive than Plasma. However, "gaps" the price will decrease over soon. For a smaller size, such as 32 inch, LCD TV television is the most common use at this time. When you choose Plasma over to the saturation, contrast and large size. Select the LCD when you want to enjoy TV, Video or X-Box, believe, can make you surprised.

Buyer Tip No. 1
Make sure you know the exact size you want and match the size of rooms are available. Measure the room carefully and have the first set will be placed where, or in a hanging rack. Why is this step important? Because the mall or to your electronics store and look at the biggest size, I guarantee you 100% will say "wow, I'll buy this one."

Buyer Tip No. 2
Know the exact financial situation and your bertahanlah on the budget has been set previously. No doubt that the LCD TV and Plasma very sexy, especially when it was showing film of your choice. That is, it's easy to distract attention and then you realize no, charge your credit card has been over-limit. LCD TV purchased to enjoy, not to disesali.

Buyer Tip No. 3
Be patient and shop around from one shop to another. Time is your friend at this time. Because in such a rapidly evolving technology and the price continues to go down, a little patience will make the LCD incaran you go down to the level of your budget. Berlakulah jockey for this.

Buyer Tip No. 4
If possible, write the first fitur2 mandatory that you dambakan. Example: HDTV at this time is very common, so you do not skip this. Fitur2 also write that you want and make a table to compare them. As we provide here.

Buyer Tip No. 5
Until the end, believe in the eye, ear and your own heart, not on the beautiful salesgirl you. Once you find a line with your budget, size is matched with your room decor, fitur2 you want, compare prices between stores you have, how to determine the final choice? The answer simple, buy LCD or Plasma TV that you most like, an image that you like most and sound the most like you, not the salesgirl who you like most.
Enjoy your new LCD TV ..